Care and Maintenance Instructions
for Duraflex Boards and Durafirm Stands

Maintenance
Refinishing
Hints about Duraflex Board and Durafirm Stand

Maintenance instructions for all models of Duraflex Diving Boards:

The surface must be tested and found to be sufficiently "non-skid" by the pool manager, while the surface is wet, when the board is put into use each season. The pool manager must also instruct the lifeguards (or pool supervisor) to test the surface, while wet, each day at the start of their shift or duty.

The pool manager and lifeguards are responsible for the pool users' safety. If a diving board is slippery, it must be taken out of service.

Causes for the Duraflex boards to become slippery:
a. Dirt and oil from swimmers and sunbathers feet.
b. Excessive wear or years of normal wear.
c. Excessive alkalinity or excessive minerals in the water.

Maintenance methods:
d. Hose off the board with water each day.
e. Scrub the board monthly using hot water and a bristle brush with detergent or chlorine.
f. Muriatic acid mat be used to remove algae or stains

What to do about worn out surfaces on Duraflex model boards:
The factory finish is a result of highly developed techniques. Non-skid materials are bonded to the aluminum with epoxy. One of these materials works to reduce tension of the water so that water does not "stand high" on the board. NO HOME REMEDY IS SATISFACTORY!

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Maintenance of the Board's Fulcrum Contacts:

The rubber channels on the underside of the board must be inspected monthly for signs of wear. They mist be replaced if worn to the point that the metal ribs on the board contact the fulcrum.

Maintenance of Durafirm Adjustable Fulcrums:

  • Hose off the entire stand with fresh water each day of use.

  • Keep the fulcrum components clean, especially the tracks. Keep the roller clamp lock nuts, and anti-rattle lock nuts snug and adjusted for a "no rattle" clearance.

  • The two grease fittings of the roller should be lubricated every two weeks. Use Mystik-6 grease and grease gun.

  • The hinges which hold the board to the stand need two drops of oil every two weeks. Use lightweight oil as for door hinges.

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Refinishing the Surface of any Model Duraflex Diving Board:

When any model Duraflex diving board wears to the point where the surface needs to be refinished it should be returned to the Duraflex Corporation or to Joe Greenwell, 405 Beverly Blvd., Florida 33511. These are the only two sources in the United States that are qualified to resurface these boards. At no time should anyone try to repaint the board with or without sand for this only makes the board more slippery.

Any surface worn board should be replaced before a slipping accident occurs which could result in a lawsuit. The length of time before refinishing depends on the kind of traffic care in handling and storage, and environmental conditions.

When the diving board is slippery, take it out of service and contact one of the services already mentioned.

Factory refinishing methods involve the following:

  1. Checking the board for cracks, which indicates the board, is broken and will not be refinished or returned unless requested.
  2. Removal of old finish with a mechanical stripper.
  3. Recoating the board with epoxy and curing it at 300 degrees F.
  4. Application of sand and alumina between three coats of epoxy and curing at 300 degrees F.

The owner of the board will pay the freight for both directions. There will be an extra charge if the board has a coating applied on top of the original factory coating. The extra cost will depend on the amount of added labor to remove the non-factory coating. Refinishing the board will be refused if the self-applied coating is thick or the material is recommended by the factory, the board will not be refinished. The owner of the board must remove any rubber based adhesive or paint that may be on top of the board before shipping it to the company for refinishing.

There will be an extra charge to replace the anchor angle if the anchor bolt holes are enlarged or corroded, or if the bolts are stuck in the anchor angle.

Examine the board carefully for gouges or cracks. Look at the underside ribs in the fulcrum area. Call Duraflex if your inspection reveals cracks so they can determine whether or not the board should be shipped to them. If you do not follow this procedure and send them the board and they reveal such cracks or gouges, they may not notify you of its condition and refuse to refinish the board.

If you ship the board, wrap it in heavy cardboard and ship via truck freight and prepay the charges. On your bill of lading, write in weight and "freight class 70" If you ship the board to either source, notify them of the shipment and give your phone number and return address. Shipping the board usually takes about 10 days from coast to coast and six weeks to refinish a board.

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Some Hints Concerning the Duraflex Board and Durafirm Stand:

  1. If any of the rubber channels under the board come off, do not continue to use the board for it will crack. Remove the board at once and glue another rubber channel on using the epoxy glue supplied by Duraflex for it is the only glue that I have found that works.
     
  2. To install the stand on an old deck.

If any of the rubber channels under the board come off, do not continue to use the board for it will crack. Remove the board at once and glue another rubber channel on using the epoxy glue supplied by Duraflex for it is the only glue that I have found that works.

To install the stand on an old deck.

  • It is best to assemble the stand, attach the railings and put the board on the stand. In other words, put the whole unit together.
  • Set the template that came with the stand on the deck at the approximate place the stand is to be installed.
  • Using a marker, punch holes through the template paper and mark on the deck the approximate place where the holes will be drilled as shown on the template.
  • Remove the template and place the stand over the dots on the deck.
  • If the dots do not match the holes at the base of the stand, make new dots through the holes at the base.
  • Remove the stand and drill a shallow hole as a pilot with a narrow bit on the dots then place the stand over the pilot holes to make sure they are centered correctly and the stand is exactly and properly placed.
  • When properly centered, use a larger bit when drilling into the cement then use the ¾" bit in preparation for the inserts. (If drill has difficulty getting through the cement, you might rent a commercial drill).
  • Make sure that the holes are a little deeper than the length of the inserts so that the tip of the insert penetrates the surface of the deck.
  • Tap in the inserts, put the stand in place, bolt the stand down.

If any of the inserts pull lose, remove the lose insert and drill the hole a little deeper. I have found that it is best to drill a little too deep than not enough, because getting an insert out that is loose is a big job. About a quarter of an inch longer than the insert when drilling is usually satisfactory.

It is also helpful if the holes are drilled straight down, because if they are drilled crookedly, it is difficult to attach the bolt. If the hole is to be crooked, it is best that the angle be in toward the center of the stand rather than away from the stand. It is extremely difficult to get a bite on the insert when it is placed outwardly. At least five inches of concrete are needed to drill and place inserts.

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